Thursday, June 17, 2010


We made it to Ponferrada, a Templar city where the Templars built a huge castle and basilica. (The photo is of a small portion of the Templar Castillo.) And I'm here to tell you, the Templars live! Yesterday we stopped at a little place called Monjadin where there was an inviting shop with food and trinkets to buy. As I was looking at postcards, a bell was rung, the sound of Ave Maria started resounding from a CD and a "templar" came from a back room, stood in front of a statue of the Virgin Mary, his sword at rest, and began to say the "Our Father" and a peregrino benediction in Spanish. I would have loved to take a picture, but none were allowed. Comforting to know the Templars are still at work protecting us peregrinos.
Tonight we are at a wonderful new albergue. We are separated into a men's and women's area with separate bathrooms. What will they think of next?! There is a great big kitchen, and we decided we were tired of peregrino menus and wanted a homecooked meal. So Truus and I went to a supermercado and bought salad stuff and spaghetti and sauce and some very cheap vino tinto. All for 7 euros. A peregrino menu usually costs about 10 euros each. In the kitchen were many people doing the same, cooking simple meals from their home countries. Inevitably, there was much food left over, and it began to be passed around. A delightful French lady brought out several bags of sausage, cheese, yogurt, bread, and a good bottle of wine. She said she had traveled 2000 kilometers eating Spanish food and bread, bread, bread, and when she went into the supermercado, she could not restrain herself! It was like the loaves and fishes. Such an abundance!
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  1. Hooray! Loaves and Fishes! Fishes and Loves!! with a good bottle of wine to boot! Is the fervor and op-tempo changing as you are getting closer to Santiago de Compostela? Do you feel good things coming your way or is it still “the misty mountains of Mordor”? Hopefully, you are now starting feel that your are traveling from dark to light on the path that many have gone this way before under the protection of the Knights Templar that have the secret lights, rights and privileges only bestowed on those of the cloth. I am certain the term, “often tried but never denied and willing to be tried again” will have a significant meaning to any Templar you encounter. GO-GIRL-GO!

  2. Hey Pilgrim - I think maybe you have given many of us new meanings to things like: Thanksgiving, Camino, Dinner, Home, Comraderie . . .You seem to be at peace with all. Perhaps when you return, your aura will prevail and the Kingdom of Furnival will flourish in the reign of the New Madonna. - Fair weather, good friends, good food, good journey and All of the Love and Support you can handle. XXXXXX's, donald

  3. As you say, the op-tempo is definitely up. This is where the start is for many bikers as the minimum distance for a obtaining a compostela for bicyclists. For us old-timers, it is a mere 124 miles to go! Today the weather is LA at its best.