Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Eating and Lodging

Several of you have asked about my food and accomodations, so here goes: The food has gotten much better the last few days. In the mountains, it seemed that all we had to eat was meat and potatoes, lots of potatoes. The food actually has been wonderful as we get into wine country, the Rioja area. The Spanish don't go in for breakfast much. Coffee with lots of milk and some bread or a croissant. It is just as well because you do not want to hit the road with a heavy stomach. Sometimes I will buy a bocadilla, a sandwich with bread like a French loaf, with some jamon, a kind of ham, and some fruit to take with me. But many times I am not very hungry. I have gone from 7:30 to 4:30 without hunger, only thirst. One blogger pilgrim said the Camino is a walking prayer and fasting, and she is right. We head for an albergue which is a special lodging place for pilgrims. Many times it is in an old monestery or church, or even an actual pilgrim hospital as they were called, where they have been lodging pilgrims for hundreds of years. Sometimes it is wonderful, as it was at Arre before Pamplona, and sometimes not so great. But always, there are bunkbeds and a mix of men and women from bunk to bunk. This is no place for modesty. After we arrive, we usually fall onto the bunk and sleep for an hour or two, then get up and wash and hang clothes to dry in the sun. There will be a special pilgrim meal at the albergue or somewhere in the town, at a special price. Some meals are great, others pretty bad. But a pilgrim humbly accepts what is offered. And it helps that the price always includes wine. There, too, sometimes fabulous, other times very cheap.
Someone asked how high the Mount of Perdon was. It was 2590 feet up. A molehill compared to the Pyrenees peak at 4757. I have walked about 50 miles, with about 450 to go. I met an English woman who had walked the camino about ten years ago. She said we will get stronger as we go and will soon be able to walk 50 kilometers easily. Right now 15 kilometers is hard. Not so hard on a level paved road, but on these paths many times it is like walking on a dry creek bed. So, we will see. Right now I am on a free internet at the albergue, and it is time for me to get off. It is a challenge using the keyboard. Everything is different. So, back to the Blackberry.

8 comments:

  1. Hola, You look great, sounds wonderful. Thanks for all the info. It's like a treat in my Christmas stocking when I come home and get your post. Think of you often throughout the day. You are a true pilgrim, changing daily. Im sure you are getting stronger in many ways. I miss you. Buen Camino!

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  2. Stop in at the golden arches and get a decent meal.

    Dad

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  3. Glad to see that all is going well on your pilgrimage. It appears that your experience is getting richer by the day. Good luck with each step of the way.

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  4. Thanks for that. It does round out the experience for those of us following you. I really look forward to your postings at the end of the day. You are truly an inspiration. I have been quite sick, but know that good health is around the corner. So seeing you do what you are doing gives me the strength to march onward too. Keep it up with the happiness that you have. Know we are all rootin for you. Love, Leslie

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  5. How are your feet and shoes holding up? Did you bring Kentucky duct tape to keep your shoes together? You said you are thirsty, so how is the water? Does it taste OK? As Natalie said, it sounds like you are in the groove and that is a very good thing. Is it starting to get warm? It looks like the temperature is 100% perfect. Get ready to train Leslie when you return – she will be ready by then. hasta la vista!

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  6. Hi Bev, I am so glad to be able to post to you. I pray for you everyday on your glorious pilgrimage. God be with you friend. Linda

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  7. Love following your blog! You are in my thoughts and prayers! Safe journey. Heather Wilson

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  8. Hi Bev, I truly enjoy reading your posts and am almost teary-eyed each time trying to imagine the richness of your experiences.BTW,you have another sponsor in me. May God bless each step you take on this journey.You are in my daily prayers. Love, Tuula and family

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