Several of you have asked about my food and accomodations, so here goes: The food has gotten much better the last few days. In the mountains, it seemed that all we had to eat was meat and potatoes, lots of potatoes. The food actually has been wonderful as we get into wine country, the Rioja area. The Spanish don't go in for breakfast much. Coffee with lots of milk and some bread or a croissant. It is just as well because you do not want to hit the road with a heavy stomach. Sometimes I will buy a bocadilla, a sandwich with bread like a French loaf, with some jamon, a kind of ham, and some fruit to take with me. But many times I am not very hungry. I have gone from 7:30 to 4:30 without hunger, only thirst. One blogger pilgrim said the Camino is a walking prayer and fasting, and she is right. We head for an albergue which is a special lodging place for pilgrims. Many times it is in an old monestery or church, or even an actual pilgrim hospital as they were called, where they have been lodging pilgrims for hundreds of years. Sometimes it is wonderful, as it was at Arre before Pamplona, and sometimes not so great. But always, there are bunkbeds and a mix of men and women from bunk to bunk. This is no place for modesty. After we arrive, we usually fall onto the bunk and sleep for an hour or two, then get up and wash and hang clothes to dry in the sun. There will be a special pilgrim meal at the albergue or somewhere in the town, at a special price. Some meals are great, others pretty bad. But a pilgrim humbly accepts what is offered. And it helps that the price always includes wine. There, too, sometimes fabulous, other times very cheap.
Someone asked how high the Mount of Perdon was. It was 2590 feet up. A molehill compared to the Pyrenees peak at 4757. I have walked about 50 miles, with about 450 to go. I met an English woman who had walked the camino about ten years ago. She said we will get stronger as we go and will soon be able to walk 50 kilometers easily. Right now 15 kilometers is hard. Not so hard on a level paved road, but on these paths many times it is like walking on a dry creek bed. So, we will see. Right now I am on a free internet at the albergue, and it is time for me to get off. It is a challenge using the keyboard. Everything is different. So, back to the Blackberry.